Southern Fried Chicken

Editor's note: The recipe and introductory text below are excerpted from The Dooky Chase Cookbook by Leah Chase and are part of our story on Mardi Gras. Chase also shared some helpful tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page.

I remember going to Mardi Gras parades and seeing fried chicken being sold on the street. There really wasn't any Mardi Gras in Madisonville — everybody left for New Orleans in hay trucks. Sometimes I could go, but usually my father wouldn't let us miss school.

We would go to see the Zulu parade, which was on Claiborne Avenue from Canal Street to St. Bernard Avenue. Claiborne was lined with beautiful oaks then. Some of the people held open houses on Claiborne, for their friends. The street was full of booths, with blacks selling fried chicken, fried fish, and red beans. My favorite thing about Mardi Gras was that we could eat in the street. My father never even let us eat candy outside normally.

I also thought it was so fun to dress in costume. But a lot of Creole ladies used the occasion to bring out their first spring suit. They would wear violet corsages, and walk with canes with a celluloid feathered doll on top. I thought it was a shame to get all fancy on Mardi Gras, instead of playing like the other maskers.

The Zulu parade mocked the white parades. The "African King" would wear a huge crystal doorknob as a ring. They were very funny. They wandered all over, passing households that paid them to go that way. Now Mardi Gras is so big that organized routes need to be followed. That's good to impose some kind of order where so many people are involved.

One group put on a Mardi Gras Breakfast Dance that was very fancy. The invited guests — usually teachers and professionals — would go in hats and gloves. I got invited eventually and wasn't so impressed. I was just happy to be watching the parade, finally able to eat some fried chicken in the street.