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Gulf Coast Bouillabaisse

Although I had never tasted it myself, I decided to try my hand at bouillabaisse after listening to my dad reminiscing for years about the one he’d had in Marseilles, in a café overlooking the bustling port. Eventually, after much research, I felt I knew what it should taste like, but I was still overwhelmed when I had my first bowl in Nice many years later—it was even more complex and deeply flavored than Dad’s memories had suggested. This is one dish where a paticularly flavorful version of Fish Fumet (p. 205) is essential. Because we don’t have the same fish as they do in France (such as rascasse, the bony fish that makes a true bouillabaisse), I use Gulf fish and shellfish in the stock. I put in a mix of flounder, snapper, and trout bones along with shrimp shells (and heads, if available), and a couple of gumbo crabs for good measure. Make enough so that you can freeze a batch for the next time you make this stew. My one concession: mussels. We don’t get them in the Gulf, but it’s just not bouillabaisse without ’em. Roasted Red Pepper Rouille (p. 184) and thin slices of toasted baguette are the essential condiments for this soup.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 8 servings

Ingredients

3

tablespoons olive oil

2

onions, chopped

1

fennel bulb, chopped

3

leeks, split lengthwise, rinsed, and thinly sliced

3

garlic cloves, minced

1

scant teaspoon saffron threads

4

cups Fish Fumet (p. 205)

2

cups diced tomatoes

1

/2 cup fresh orange juice

1

tablespoon grated orange zest

1

tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

2

tablespoons Pernod, Herbsaint, or other anise liqueur

Bouquet Garni (p. 145)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1

pound white fish

1

pound shrimp (25-30 count)

16

oysters, shucked

1

1/2 pounds mussels

1

/2 pound scallops, optional

Toasted baguette croûtes (p. 88)

Roasted Red Pepper Rouille (p. 184)

Need to make a substitution?

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a 1-gallon pot, heat half the olive oil over medium-high heat and sauté the onions, fennel, and leeks for 5–7 minutes, then add the garlic and saffron and cook for 2 additional minutes, until vegetables are softened but not browned (lower the heat to medium, if necessary, to prevent this). Add the Fish Fumet, tomatoes, orange juice, orange zest, thyme, liqueur, and Bouquet Garni, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened. Taste for seasoning and add salt and pepper; keep warm.

    Step 2

    Heat the remaining olive oil in a large pot over medium heat and add the fish, cut into 1/2-inch dice, and the shrimp, and sauté for 2–3 minutes. Add the oysters, mussels, and scallops, and ladle in some of the broth and vegetable mixture (approximately 1 cup per person). Stir, bring it to a boil, reduce the heat, and cover. Cook until the mussel shells open, then taste for seasoning and divide among 8 bowls. Serve with the baguette rounds and Roasted Red Pepper Rouille (p. 184).

From Crescent City Cooking by Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf. Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook. Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, among other major publications.