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magazine brioche crusted fish
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Recipes
For easy crispy salmon on a weeknight, take a page from chef Adrienne Cheatham's book and top your fish with a slice of brioche.
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For my first two months in the army I was based outside Toul. In the town was a pâtisserie that made the best brioche with pastry cream. I would go to the shop whenever I could. The baker spread pastry cream over the dough, and then rolled it up like a biscuit rolé (jelly roll). My father made a brioche-and-pastrycream roll, too, but shaped it like a bretzel. Chantal still remembers them from the first time I brought her home to meet my parents—to do that you had to be serious. When I told my father I planned to put them in this book, he was so pleased.
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Recipes
The unusual crust is made of brioche dough.
Recipes
Most fish markets will sell you the bones you need to make the rich broth, but avoid those from oily fish like mackerel or bluefish, which will overpower the stew’s flavor.
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I love all kinds of Italian fish soups, having sampled countless versions of zuppa di pesce, served with just enough tomatoey sauce to slurp up with a spoon, as well as brodo di pesce, a flavorful fish stock usually with nothing but rice. A new discovery for me, though, was this Molisano version of brodo di pesce, with chard and peppers floating between chunks of seafood in a savory broth. Served with grilled bread or a slab of grilled polenta, it is indeed a complete meal. Relish it with a glass of crispy white wine from the region’s distinctive Falanghina grape varietal, and you can taste Molise beckoning you.
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Some famous French hostess supposedly started the fashion for the recipe below and created a sensation in her salon. I am sure a reputation and a leading position in any town can be built up if you serve enough of them for they are as contagious as measles. A good friend of mine can eat a dozen of them at one sitting.
Not only is this delicious, but it is one of the most decorative canapés you can make, for an edging of brilliant green enhances the golden yellow of the brioche and makes a most appetizing tidbit.
Recipes
A simple version of Bouillabaisse (page 138) that uses only one type of fish and is thickened by aïoli, the wonderful garlicky mayonnaise of Provence and Liguria (also called “the Italian Riviera”). Ask your fishmonger to gut and fillet the fish and to give you the head and bones for the stock, which of course can be made in advance. (Within limits you can use as many heads and bones as you like. See Fish Stock, page 161.) Serve this stew with crusty bread and a salad.
Recipes
Although I had never tasted it myself, I decided to try my hand at bouillabaisse after listening to my dad reminiscing for years about the one he’d had in Marseilles, in a café overlooking the bustling port. Eventually, after much research, I felt I knew what it should taste like, but I was still overwhelmed when I had my first bowl in Nice many years later—it was even more complex and deeply flavored than Dad’s memories had suggested. This is one dish where a paticularly flavorful version of Fish Fumet (p. 205) is essential. Because we don’t have the same fish as they do in France (such as rascasse, the bony fish that makes a true bouillabaisse), I use Gulf fish and shellfish in the stock. I put in a mix of flounder, snapper, and trout bones along with shrimp shells (and heads, if available), and a couple of gumbo crabs for good measure. Make enough so that you can freeze a batch for the next time you make this stew. My one concession: mussels. We don’t get them in the Gulf, but it’s just not bouillabaisse without ’em. Roasted Red Pepper Rouille (p. 184) and thin slices of toasted baguette are the essential condiments for this soup.
Recipes
Chez Paul, located near the port of Marseille, stands at a crossroads with three other fish restaurants. But the license from the Beth Din of Marseille, hanging on the wall, certifying that the restaurant is kosher, sets this one apart. When I visited Chez Paul, Fathi Hmam, the Tunisian Muslim chef, was busy prepping bouillabaisse for the evening’s dinner. Technically, his bouillabaisse stew is a bourride, because it only has fish with fins and scales—those that swim near the magnificent rocky shore of this ancient port city of France. But he does not use lotte (monkfish), also a nonkosher fish, central to fish bourrides in Marseille. Bourride is one of the oldest dishes in France, said to have been brought by the Phoenicians in the sixth century B.C.E. Of course, the tomatoes and potatoes arrived much later. It is also said that a few Jews came with the Phoenicians on this voyage. Is that why, perhaps, there is no shellfish in the bourride? The success of this simple dish depends on knowing at what moment the fish is perfectly cooked. And, of course, don’t forget the rouille (see page 63), which North African Jews and Muslims alike make their own by adding a Tunisian touch: harissa.
Articles
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Cooking
This week on the Dinner SOS podcast, Chris and Shilpa help two salmon lovers add some new fish recipes to their repertoire.
Bon Appétit Staff & Contributors
Shopping
Plus: team-ups between LoveShackFancy and Stanley Cup, Chipotle and Wonderskin, Little Spoon and Graza, and more.
Megan Wahn
Cooking
Not using a cold non-stick pan? Let us help you out.
Carla Lalli Music
Restaurants
Go to Charleston’s Chubby Fish for the kitschy-fun caviar service. Stay for the perfectly grilled b-liner snapper.
Hilary Cadigan
Culture
Fish master Peter Alexandre keeps an American tradition alive down South
Bon Appétit
Cooking
Food director Carla Lalli Music’s three favorite words are “bread for dipping,” and this dish delivers.
Carla Lalli Music
Videos
(245)
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Bon Appétit Test Kitchen Manager Brad Leone is back for Episode 34 of "It's Alive." He's joined by chef and host Matty Matheson (Muchies, Viceland) to make some delicious halibut fish tacos. With tortillas from scratch, fish from Alaska, and accents from New Jersey and Toronto, this episode has it all.
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Bon Appétit joins chef Lucas Sin to try some of Hong Kong’s freshest steamed fish at Ap Lei Chau Market. Steamed fish is a traditional Cantonese dish and the fresher the better–at Ap Lei Chau Market they're serving fish caught in the harbor that morning straight to your plate.
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Forget just slicing mushrooms. Chef Jacques Pépin carves a fish out of them.
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Join Chris Morocco in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen as he prepares fried fish sandwiches with pickled cucumbers and fresh tartar sauce.
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Join Chris Morocco in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen as he prepares fried fish sandwiches with pickled cucumbers and fresh tartar sauce.
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Join Chris Morocco in the Bon Appétit Test Kitchen as he prepares fried fish sandwiches with pickled cucumbers and fresh tartar sauce.