Grits

The combination of seafood, sausage, and grits creates a hearty and homey dish that brings the smells and tastes of the Lowcountry into your kitchen, no matter where you live.

We are always wowed by how complex in both flavor and texture hand-milled grits are compared to their supermarket counterpart, which we don't recommend for this particular recipe. Grits are best when freshly cooked, but if you're making an entire menu, you'll probably want to prepare them the day before (see cooks' note, below). We suggest storing raw grits in the refrigerator until you're ready to cook them.

This dish — the result of a conversation between two food editors who had just returned from opposite parts of the country — almost made itself. Paul Grimes came back from Charleston talking about the creamy stone-ground grits, shrimp, and collard greens of chef Kevin Johnson at Anson, and Kemp Minifie returned from Seattle to tell us about the scallops over braised cabbage with foie gras vinaigrette that Johnathan Sundstrom serves at Lark. We loved the idea of both dishes so much, we met somewhere in between, with this simpler recipe.

Here, the beloved grits of the South are baked into a tender, cheesy roll that embraces all the elements of a country-style breakfast. Just slice and serve.

Jonathan Waxman makes his polenta using stone-ground grits because he prefers their coarser texture. You will, too.

The grits mixture will almost fill the entire baking dish and will puff up when baking, but don't worry — it won't overflow. Also, switching sides, these grits can take the place of mashed potatoes anytime.

We tested this recipe with both stone-ground and regular "old-fashioned" grits; we liked the stone-ground best here because of its pronounced corn flavor and appealing texture. If you already have the "old-fashioned" type on hand, it's a fine substitute. Simply follow our procedure and disregard the cooking instructions on the package.

"During a recent business trip to Birmingham, Alabama, I had dinner at the Hot and Hot Fish Club," writes Shelia Murray of Paradise, California. "Every bite of chef Chris Hasting's shrimp and grits was packed with flavor. I'd love to prepare this stand-out dish at home."

"On a tour of the South, I had dinner at The Boathouse, an outstanding restaurant in Charleston, South Carolina," says Marion Hunt of Valhalla, New York. "Their spicy shrimp and sausage with grits was my favorite meal of the entire trip." The creamy grits and spicy sauce create a nice contrast. Adjust the amount of hot pepper sauce to make the dish as hot as you like.

The chef uses Georgia quail in this dish; chicken works well and is easier to buy.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr When Craig Claiborne accepted an invitation to a hunt breakfast in Virginia, he didn't understand that riding a horse would be part of the deal. He found the experience hair-raising but furnished us with a delightful account of that weekend — along with this fluffy rendition of the South's beloved grits. It makes a good side dish to almost any meat — especially ham, of course.

"On a recent visit to Charleston, South Carolina, I was greatly taken with the grits served at the restaurant Slightly North of Broad, on East Bay Street," says Charles C. Gordon of Ontario, Canada. "Is it possible to get the recipe?"

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

"Recently I had dinner at Highlands Bar & Grill in Birmingham, Alabama. To say I was dazzled by the baked grits is not overstating the case," writes Mary Lane Stiglets of Jackson, Mississippi. "This divine and truly southern recipe should be printed in your magazine for all to enjoy."

Chef Tory McPhail writes: "I was 19 years old and just out of culinary school when I first started at Commander's Palace. Despite my training, nothing prepared me for the pressures of working in a fast-paced kitchen, or in a restaurant of such high quality. I think my success came down to sheer effort and a lifelong passion for cooking. Even as a kid I loved playing with cookie and pie dough. "After a seven-year absence, which I spent working abroad and opening a new Commander's Palace restaurant in Las Vegas, I came back to New Orleans last year. Since returning I've enjoyed cooking for my friends. On the weekends we'll go fishing, and then I'll grill our catch and serve it along with a fresh salad. That meal combines the two best things about living in the South — lots of fishing and great fresh produce." Serve these creamy grits with fried eggs for a southern-style breakfast. Andouille, a spicy pork sausage, is available at specialty foods stores and some supermarkets.

A quick and easy side dish that goes well with roast chicken, turkey or pork chops.