Galangal

In its traditional form, this classic Lao soup is made with noodles rolled out and cut to order for each bowl. It is still excellent made with dried rice noodles. You can substitute fish, chicken, or pork for the beef, but rice noodles are an essential ingredient. The Lao like a considerable amount of lime juice in their food—here a range is given so that you can flavor the soup to your taste.

Anywhere you go in Laos, you will find women patiently preparing papaya for this salad. Using a small machete-like knife, they make repeated shallow parallel cuts, each about 1/8 inch deep, in a section of the papaya. Then they scrape the papaya from top to bottom so they end up with very nice julienne. A food processor fitted with the julienne disk or a manual slicer such as a mandoline works equally well.

If you're short on time, you can substitute bottled red curry paste (we recommend Mae Ploy brand) for homemade, but the flavor will not be as nuanced. There will be some curry paste left over after making the jungle curry and steamed catfish. Simply stir the remainder together with unsweetened coconut milk to give chicken, shrimp, or mussels a Thai spin. Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr