Deborah Madison

Cavolo nero is a member of the kale family and is available year-round in the United States. The reason you might have trouble finding it at farm stands, specialty produce markets, or natural foods stores is because of its many aliases: Tuscan kale, black cabbage, lacinata, lacinato, dinosaur kale, flat black cabbage, thousand-headed cabbage. Its rich, sweet, almost meaty flavor will have you hooked with the first bite.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

Instead of white cubes of tofu bobbing in this African-style soup, where they look decidedly odd, I purée the tofu with a portion of the finished soup until everything is smooth. The tofu is there, but it doesn't intrude. And this is a method you can use with virtually any puréed soup. If you wish, you can purée the entire soup or leave it textured, with bits of sweet potatoes and peppers.

Broccoli needn't only be cooked fast until bright green and al dente. In fact the flavor is amplified when it's braised slowly until as tender as can be. You can enjoy this as a vegetable side dish, spoon it over garlic-rubbed bruschetta, or toss it with pasta and freshly grated pecorino or Parmesan cheese.

Raising pancakes and waffles with yeast is an old American tradition that predates the invention of baking powder. The overnight proofing develops the flavor of the flours, and the yeast ensures lightness even for heavier grains. The batter keeps well, covered and refrigerated, for several days.

Try these waffles with Quince Applesauce Mushrooms

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

Covered with a cracked sugar crust, this cake is fragrant with butter — yet it uses far less than most cakes. And although it's made with yeast, the rising time is brief. I love this cake at any time of day, with raspberries, with fruit compotes of all kinds, and in place of shortcake with strawberries and cream.

Applesauce can begin as a soothing breakfast fruit and end as a dessert, tucked inside a buckwheat crêpe or made into the glorious dessert.

The pressure cooker in tandem with the food mill eliminates the need to peel and core the apples. You can have applesauce in 15 minutes.

Quinces give applesauce an elusive perfume and turn it rosy pink.