Barbara Kafka

I can just hear someone shouting "Oh, no, not quinoa again," but this is really good. I made it for friends who cannot eat onions or garlic. Looking around for a solution, I found that the freezer had two plastic containers of Boletus mushrooms that I had picked, cooked, and frozen in the summer. If—as is probable—fresh Boletus are not available, use another good mushroom. Even if you don't forage as I do, you will find an expanding selection of flavorful mushrooms in shops—labeled "wild" only to differentiate them from regular mushrooms. They need not be frozen. In fact, they will need to be defrosted if frozen.
Don't worry if this makes more than you need. My friends took home the remains, and so will yours.

This recipe would not be possible without the late Bette Hagman and her book The Gluten-Free Gourmet Bakes Bread. She was innovative and to be respected. I made a few changes to avoid artificial ingredients, but the credit is hers. The bread also makes great toast. French Meadow Bakery makes a similar good loaf, available online and in speciality stores.

These really do look and taste like their gluten- and dairy-laden counterparts. Just don't expect quite as many nooks and crannies.
It is extremely important to use masa harina for this recipe. Though it is a corn product, it is completely different from cornmeal and masarepa (produced specifically for arepas although I still find that the masa harina arepas are must tastier). Masa harina is traditionally used to make corn tortillas and tamales but can make arepas as well. The more coarsely ground cornmeal is used to make corn bread and corn mush.

I'm surprised and delighted by the number of sweets and desserts that I have been able to come up with sans flour and dairy. With this one I had help. Our good friend Dr. Nersessian—a very good cook—came up with the first version of this to give me a dessert without the bad things. I have fiddled with it a bit. It has been a great success with all who have tasted it. A chocolate version follows.

Straciatella are little rags or strings, which is what the eggs look like when they are cooked. It is these gentle shreds that make this soup so comforting. The essentials of this soup are the stock, or brodo, the eggs, and the cheese. The spinach or other greens are variants. Cooked peas can be used instead of the greens and Garlic Broth can be substituted for the brodo.

The technique in this recipe is stolen, with gratitude, from Pellegrino Artusi, a brilliant cook and gastronome who wrote The Art of Eating Well.

Use a pot that is large enough to hold the colander over the stock without actually touching it, so that the egg can flow freely into the soup to form the strings.

Clearly this is an Italian soup. Biete is Swiss chard, usually green, although I have a fondness for the drama and beefy taste of the red-stemmed kind.

The garlic is added in two lots here to get two different flavors. The first amount is sautéed with other vegetables at the beginning of the recipe in good Italian or Spanish fashion. The second goes in near the end to provide a bite. The tomatoes provide most of the liquid.

Let the bread sit at room temperature for several hours, or overnight, until dry.