Octopus

Espagueti Frutos del Mar Hearty with shrimp, mussels, squid, and octopus, this flavor-packed pasta dish gets an extra boost from a bright basil purée drizzled on before serving. True, there's some effort involved in making it, but you can prepare the various elements in stages, and the drama and deliciousness of the result will more than compensate your efforts.

This fresh-tasting Cuban dish attests to the terrific quality of canned octopus that is now widely available. However, if you can't find octopus, feel free to substitute two cans of tuna packed in olive oil.

Though Rose Pascale always uses fresh octopus (sold as pulpo in many Latino markets), we found that it's generally sold frozen. You may need to special-order or reserve octopus from your local fish market several days ahead.

The following antipasto is based on an octopus and cannellini salad served at La Baraonda in Florence.